Paris Fashion Week: Valentino Designer's Maximalist 'Ready-To-Wear' Debut

Alessandro Michele made waves with his highly anticipated ready-to-wear debut at Valentino during Paris Fashion Week, showcasing a collection that felt like a celebration of transformation. The runway, designed to resemble a living room in transition, was adorned with stools, ladders, and lamps draped in white fabric, evoking the essence of a home renovation. This setting signified not just change but a deliberate revival of past elegance.

Michele, who took the helm at Valentino after his impactful tenure at Gucci, presented a “maximalist-lite” collection that artfully intertwined history with his signature eclecticism. The ambiance, enhanced by haunting melodies and rhythmic drumming, set the stage for a show that balanced nostalgia and modernity.

The collection featured whimsical details, such as feathers on hats and glimpses of lingerie beneath delicate layers. Floral motifs, fortune-teller hats, and sparkling embellishments converged to create a wardrobe infused with vintage charm. Familiar Valentino staples, like the feminine nipped-waist dress and tiered floral gowns, emerged reimagined; feathers replaced fur, resulting in a softer aesthetic that embraced contemporary sensibilities.

Jared Leto was among the celebrities in attendance, underscoring Michele’s strong connection with Hollywood’s elite. His collection showcased a playful twist on the brand’s classics, maintaining the iconic Valentino red while introducing refreshing textures and silhouettes.

Dramatic aesthetics

Meanwhile, Sean McGirr’s sophomore show for Alexander McQueen unfolded under the historic arches of the École des Beaux-Arts, moving from a bleak industrial backdrop to a venue that symbolized rejuvenation. McGirr, who faced critical scrutiny during his debut, displayed newfound confidence, though echoes of his earlier simplistic approach persisted.

Set to a backdrop of dramatic music, the collection opened with tailored suits that suggested both protection and resilience against skepticism. Drawing inspiration from McQueen’s “Banshee” show, McGirr delved into a darker aesthetic that resonated with the brand's legacy. The tailored pieces, while innovative, occasionally faltered—such as a jagged tuxedo that lacked the nuanced complexity of prior collections.

Maximalism tailored with functionality

In contrast, Akris presented a collection that prioritized understated luxury. Albert Kriemler’s designs, characterized by utility and sophistication, featured reimagined trench coats that seamlessly fused practicality with high fashion. Each piece whispered refinement rather than shouted extravagance, showcasing a commitment to timeless craftsmanship.

Ultimately, both Michele and McGirr's collections reflected distinct narratives of revival and identity, setting the tone for the evolving landscape of contemporary fashion