New lockdown tests restaurant survival in Belgium

coronavirus pandemic is garing strength again in Europe, and with winter coming, its restaurant industry is struggling. spring lockdowns were alrey devastating for many, and w a new set of restrictions has dealt a second blow. Some governments have ordered restaurants closed; ors have imposed restrictions curtailing how y operate.

Successful restaurants have always h to apt quickly, but never has re been a challenge like this. For De Viering restaurant in Heikruis, just outside Brussels, it seemed earlier this month that owners' decision to move operation into spacious vill church to comply with earlier coronavirus rules was paying off. reservation book was full, and kitchen was bustling.

And n Belgium's prime minister ordered cafes, bars and restaurants shut for at least a month in face of surging infections. It was a huge blow for chef Heidi Vanhasselt. She and her sommelier husband Christophe Claes h installed a kitchen and new toilets at church, as well as committing to 10 months' rent and pouring vast amounts of energy into making new site work.

"It's ar shock, of course, because, yes, all investments are me," Vanhasselt said.

Vanhasselt's frustration is shared by many in Europe as hospitality industry reels in face of pandemic. Ar restaurant on outskirts of Brussels, Tartufo, was caught off-guard when first lockdown was anunced in spring. This time, owner Griet Grassin and her husband chef Kayes Ghourabi were rey with plans to ramp up ir takeaway service - even offering ir own gin with Mediterranean spices for good measure. Still, income will drop by about 70% to 80%.

"I always say to my husband, restaurant was our first child", Grassin said. "You want to fight for it... If y hurt it, you want to defend it."

More than just jobs and revenue are at stake here. Restaurants and cafes lie at heart of European life. Closures threaten very fabric of social life by shutting places where neighbours mix, extended families gar and seeds of new families are sown. This time, closures are particularly painful because of possibility that y might stretch into Christmas season, stopping everything from pre-holiday office drinks to a special meal on day.

And food historian Peter Scholliers believes fear factor will linger long after virus itself has receded as an immediate threat to public health. "re will be this fear that will linger on for, I think, a couple of months, perhaps years, of meeting people, of hugging people, of shaking hands," he said. "It will be different in terms of eating and of restaurants." 

(Im Credits: AP)