Published 20:14 IST, September 25th 2019

Dior celebrates nature to kick off Paris Fashion Week

The drizzly weather in the French capital didn’t rain on Dior’s parade as the powerhouse staged the first major show of Paris Fashion Week on Tuesday.

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drizzly wear in French capital didn’t rain on Dior’s pare as powerhouse std first major show of Paris Fashion Week on Tuesday.

On contrary, rain was a fitting accessory for a forest-med show at Longchamp Racecourse that celebrated nature and ecology. earthy scent of wet soil from a forest nearby wafted around fashion editors and celebrities who included Julianne Moore and Jennifer Lawrence. Here are some highlights of Paris Fashion Week rey-to-wear shows for Spring-Summer 2020 including Saint Laurent.

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Dior’s first female designer, Maria Grazia Chiuri, pulled off a clever twist for season when House of Dior’s legendary founder wasn’t usual inspiration for designs. In Christian Dior’s place was his colorful and rebellious sister, Carine Dior, kwn simply as Miss Dior. Chiuri delved into house archives and came back-channeling a photo of Carine, who was a gardener and born in 1917, surrounded by flowers.

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result was a decorative and quirky collection. It riffed on gardening and on buttoned-up collar styles Miss Dior wore. Straw hats in natural hues or dyed black, some with contrasting trim, defined tone of 67-look show with a central eco-me. program tes said hats were fashioned in raffia, a natural fiber me from palm leaves. Against forest backdrop, it me quite fashion statement.

A loose striped mini-dress in style of a gardener’s apron opened show alongside a beautiful A-line full skirt that teemed with intricate organic embroidery. Later, collection loosened up with as an open coat-collar silhouette and a series of fluid silk gowns in pastel shes and floral prints. But despite fresh quirks, collection h many designs that left an impression y have been seen before.

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Dior's eco tree

Chiuri’s shows are all about a “mess.” During previous seasons, it often was about feminism and fight for women’s rights. For Tuesday’s display, Italian designer turned her attention to ecology. Celebrity models, including Natalia Vodiava and Karlie Kloss, posed in a square, tawny brown annex with a forest-scape of diverse and unusual trees. set was a collaboration with Coloco, a landscape design firm with an ecological focus that cultivates trees and plants and re-uses m in projects.

Model and actress Laetitia Casta, mired Dior’s push for environmental awareness. “Fortunately, we’re being vigilant and we are conscious (of ecology) as it is future and next generation, even, or especially, in world of luxury industry,” Casta said. “With art, we can achieve great things. And we need to get mess across.”

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KATE MOSS’ CHILEAN BOOK LAUNCH

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In a dazzling column dress in gold leopard print, Kate Moss sipped golden champagne and stole limelight on first day of Paris Fashion Week at evening launch event for a new book she edited, “Musings on Fashion and Style: Museo de la Moda.”

book of photographs centers on eye-popping collections of Chile’s Museo de la Moda, one of world’s biggest private fashion museums. Its archives include examples of 19th century Dolman shawls, Marilyn Monroe’s black gowns, Jimmy Hendrix’s Indian tunics, and contemporary Balmain sequin dresses. museum in Santiago, which opened in 2007, does t have international name-recognition it deserves. volume edited by fashion muse Moss features pieces she hand-picked.

Pieces selected for book were displayed for guests at Paris book launch, such as 1920s opera coats and designs from swinging ’60s London. Museum director Jorge Yarur Bascunan said collaboration with came about by chance when Moss visited Chile. “Out of blue, I got a call one day saying Kate Moss is coming to Chile. It happened she loved vint feel of archive pieces,” Bascunan said. “ book happened organically.”

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RIHANNA SKIPS POP-UP STORE LAUNCH

Rihanna did t attend Paris Fashion Week on Monday, but singer--designer was re in spirit when latest pop-up store for her new style brand, Fenty, launched at flagship of French department store Galeries Lafayette.

see-w-buy-w collection included jewelry, eyewear, shoes, and clothing. Rihanna upped sophistication for many garments this season, such as an oversized pinstriped coat with sloping shoulders and a unisex feel, and a dazzling silken tuxedo jacket with jagged double lapels.

News of singer’s groundbreaking deal with LVMH, world’s largest luxury group, shook up fashion industry in May. Rihanna is first woman and first person of color to create a major brand for LVMH from scratch. For launch, Galeries Lafayette’s usual light-colored mannequins were tred for dark ones, recognizing black consumers of luxury goods. Attending fashionistas praised effort to show diversity.

MARINE SERRE’S COVERED UP

new darling wunderkind of Paris Fashion Week, Marine Serre, sent her models outside to brave elements on a rainy autumn day. Guests at show clung tightly to umbrellas as y viewed designs that channeled a covered-up aestic - thankfully for wear-beaten models.

Skintight undergarments paired with long black gloves, knee-high cowboy boots, and crinkled black PVC raincoats began show of accomplished styles. Serre n moved in a more sophisticated direction with vint-style patterned undergarments and tailored jackets in vivid red.

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It’s been a meteoric rise since French designer from Correze won coveted LVMH fashion award at 25 in 2017. designer has said she sees her style “combining and absorbing codes from rically different worlds” while igring tritional “boundaries between rey-to-wear, couture, tailoring and sportswear.”

SAINT LAURENT’S BOHO DISCO

Disco beams, graphic ’70s silhouettes and boho styles mixed at Anthony Vaccarello’s spring offering for Saint Laurent that served up more of same from Belgian designer. Eiffel Tower glimmered in backdrop; mired by equally starry front row, including Cindy Crawford, Andie MacDowell, Carine Deneuve, and Charlotte Gainsbourg. Tuxedo styles with plunging V-neck were one key silhouette.

But best look strayed from famed house signatures in styles that captured a sort of bohemian-disco style. One shoulder, gown in glimmering gold and blue cut a highly creative shape: It sported a cinched waist, peaked shoulder, and a loose 70s arm, nipped at cuff.

It was accessorized by ruffled lear knee-high vint-style boots that has come to be synymous with Vaccarello. re were few great artistic leaps this spring-summer. But perhaps designer doesn’t want to change course on saleable aestic he’s continued with house since taking over reins from Hedi Slimane in 2016?

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19:19 IST, September 25th 2019